Hussein Chalayan, 1970

Born in Nicosia, Cyprus Hussein Chalayan’s family left Cyprus and settled in England in 1982. He graduated from Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London in 1993. The attribute that most distinguishes Chalayan from other fashion designers is his penchant for coming up with “philosophically positioned” designs that make the political, economic, and social influences of today’s world their point of departure and with garments that make occasional references to sculpture, furniture, and even architecture.

“Aeroplane Dress” is made of fiberglass and resin cast into a form that reminds us of a body of the aircraft. The skirt has parts that look like flaps or wings, and as they open, the model starts to turn slowly. It reminds us of an aeroplane taking off and landing, as it turns gradually more quickly and then more slowly. The aeroplane as a motif often appears in Chalayan’s work as a symbol of movement and speed. Moreover, it is always shadowed by a negative connotation such as migration or exile. In this work, as the voice of a mu’azzin (the caller to prayer) calling Muslim prayers is played, the aeroplane’s image is overlaid with the American bombing in Iraq which preceded the film.